Category: Condiments

 

Martha was the first to introduce me to compound butters. Over thirty years ago when I was first married I spent a lot of time in bookstores paging through volumes of my new found interest, cookbooks. I always knew that I would enjoy cooking and Joe and I were beginning to enjoy preparing meals for ourselves and entertaining friends in our townhouse. One of the first books that really caught my attention was Entertaining, Martha Stewart’s first cookbook. At first I wasn’t sure if Martha was just a model for the book cover or in fact, the author. Actually both were true, she was a model through college and she had written the book from her experiences as a caterer. I was fascinated with the layout of the book, each chapter was a different type of party. Cocktail parties, dinner parties, holiday parties, the omelette party, eventually I would become familiar with them all.  At that time I wasn’t sure if I could justify the thirty-five dollars for this beautiful book. Fortunately, a dear friend loaned me the copy she had received as a wedding gift and I had it on a long term loan (thanks Wilma!).

Back to the butters, Entertaining had a recipe for fruit butter to accompany muffins and sweet breads and an herb butter to serve along with homemade savory breads. As my well worn copy of the book would attest, yes I did break down and buy it, I have made them many times, for our parties and as a caterer, for countless occasions. Herb butter is a compound butter which simply means butter creamed with another ingredient, whether it’s herbs, garlic, shallots, or honey or jam in the case of sweet butters. Compound butters can be made at any time but it’s a great way to preserve and enjoy herbs at their peak. Right now and at the end of summer, chives flower and show new growth.  I kept the recipe simple this time, just chives, sea salt and a little lemon peel. It’s great on fish, vegetables, steak, maybe even mixed into some freshly popped popcorn. Just bring butter to room temperature and stir in finely minced herbs. You can do the mincing with either a knife or scissors. Using unsalted butter allows you to add salt, but to your own liking. Chives can be used in combination with other herbs, tarragon, parsley and dill to name a few.

Martha came out with a update to her Entertaining book last year, this time it’s called, Martha’s Entertaining: A Year of Celebrations. Seventy five dollars, weighing in at six pounds, about a hundred plus more pages and yes, a recipe for a compound butter. This time it’s a garlic and herb butter to accompany her garden crudites for a luncheon. Can’t wait to try that one too.

Chive Butter

Makes 8 ounces

Ingredients

• 2 sticks of unsalted butter
• 1/4 c finely chopped chives (you can include flower buds also)
• 1/4t finely minced lemon peel
• Sea salt to taste

Directions

1. In a large bowl, mash the butter with a potato masher.You can even cream the butter using the paddle attachment of a stand mixer or in the bowl of a food processor.The goal is just to get the butter soft so you can incorporate the chives.
2. Add the chopped chives and continue mashing/mixing the butter until fully incorporated. Mix in the lemon peel and salt to taste.
3. Spread out a large (1-foot or bigger) square of plastic wrap across your work surface. Spoon the butter out in a band about 1 inch wide on the bottom third of the plastic. Tightly roll up the butter in the plastic to form a log. Grab the excess plastic at both ends of the log and twist the ends in opposite directions. The cylinder should be taut and as round as possible. 
4. Tie the excess plastic wrap at the ends of the cylinder into a knot, or just use little pieces of string to tie off the ends.
5. To store the butter, wrap the plastic covered log tightly in aluminum foil and refrigerate for up to a week or freeze for up to 3 months.

I always look forward to my weekly excursions to Wegmans. It’s my one stop for food shopping, with the exception of fish and seafood that I get just a few miles down the road at Hellers Seafood. From the truffles that are kept under lock and key to the large selection of pristine fresh fruit and vegetables, I love their produce department. In the “off season” it’s the next best thing to growing your own. Sometimes I’m even introduced to something new, well at least to me. That was the case last week. I walked in, grabbed my cart and headed for my first stop, the produce section. The lady giving out samples of fresh-squeezed juice was quite busy so I happened to notice a gentleman from Melissa’s produce giving out samples of a fruit that I heard of but had never tasted before, dragon fruit. It was paired in a little sample cup with some strawberry slices. Although expensive (5.99 for one fruit!) I was feeling adventurous after a taste.  I bought two, I knew I wanted to try them on my own.

Dragon fruit, also known as pitaya, is the fruit of a cactus (this east coast girl can’t relate!)  It was first grown in Central and South America and expanded to Southeast Asia through the French. It is now grown domestically in Florida, Texas and Southern California. The fruit emerges from the aptly named moon flower that blooms for one night only. Pollination by fruit bats and other insects must occur that one night or no fruit will emerge. Dragon fruit is quite interesting in appearance. the ones I purchased were about the size of a mango and fuchsia in color with soft green spikes, resembling the scales of the dragon. There are also varieties with yellow and red skin. The flesh can vary from white to red.  The taste was lightly sweet, with crunchy little seeds, reminiscent of  those in a kiwi. The texture of the flesh reminded me of a crisp pear. Dragon fruit is very easy to prepare, just cut in half and either scoop out the flesh or cut away the flesh from the skin with a sharp knife.

A current favorite of the marketing world, dragon fruit is being infused into everything from rum, vodka, a flavored Pepsi, an antioxidant tea to an air freshener and a scented candle.  Dragon fruit is low in calories, high in fiber, rich in B vitamins and antioxidants. The skin is not edible but makes a lovely serving vessel. It can be added to fruit salads, smoothies and desserts. In this salsa recipe I chose to pair the mild crisp dragon fruit to contrast with some very sweet pineapple and some heat from a jalapeno. The amount of heat you add to the salsa is up to you. My frozen jalapenos still pack quite a punch. Serve with fish or chicken.

 

Dragon Fruit Salsa

Makes about 2 cups

Ingredients

• 1 1/2c dragon fruit cut into 1/2 inch chunks
• 1c peeled and cored pineapple cut into 1/2 inch chunks
• 1 small bell pepper, stemmed and cored, cut into 1/2 inch chunks
• 1/2 of a whole jalapeno pepper, chopped finely
• Juice of one medium lime
• 1/4c finely chopped cilantro
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Directions

1. Combine the first six ingredients in a medium bowl and stir gently.
2. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.

 

One more condiment, really? My husband astutely pointed out that if we emptied all the condiments from our refrigerator we would be left with some eggs, celery and a container of half and half. In our refrigerator you can find four types of mustard, capers, several containers of olives and everything you might need to put together a Thai curry. Some of the condiments were my own home grown homemade treats, a half used jar of pickled jalapenos, some yellow tomato jam and a small jar of homemade nutella. So why one more? A Facebook post from America’s Test Kitchen for preserved lemons caught my eye. I knew that a jar of preserved lemons would be expensive in a gourmet store, but not expensive or time-consuming at all if I made them myself. I decided the little amount of work in the recipe  might result in something very interesting. 

Preserved or pickled lemons are common in Indian, North African and Moroccan cuisine. Cookbook author Paula Wolfert in her book, Food of Morocco, states that preserved lemons are made with the creme de la creme of Moroccan lemons, the thin-skinned Doqq. The Doqq is not grown in the US but the Meyer lemon is a reasonable substitute. Since the Meyer is actually a cross between a lemon and an orange, they are less acidic and have a thinner rind than the standard supermarket variety lemon, the Eureka.

The lemons are pickled in a brine of lemon juice and salt. The lemons are sliced as if you are cutting them in quarters lengthwise, but not all the way through.  Kosher salt is packed in the incisions and the lemons are submerged in a bath of lemon juice. Additional seasonings can be added to the brine such as bay leaves, coriander seeds or cinnamon sticks. It takes very little time to put together, but it takes four to six weeks before the lemons are ready to use. As time goes on, more and more juice will exude from the lemons and the juice will take on a cloudy appearance. Shake the jar every now and then to keep the salt blended well in the liquid. Since they try to bob to the top, no matter how much juice you put in the jar, I cut a double round of parchment paper the size of the top of the jar to keep the lemons submerged in the juice-salt solution.

 If I lived on the west coast I would be telling you that I picked these lemons from organically grown trees in our backyard, but I live in Bucks County, Pennsylvania. We have a small Meyer lemon tree that we bought  in hopes that it will eventually produce fruit. We enjoy it on the deck in the spring and summer and it winters indoors to escape snow and freezing temperatures. The only thing it has offered us so far are the heavenly aromatic white blossoms that made their appearance several weeks ago. We bought the tree because only a few years ago I found it next to impossible to buy Meyer lemons in local supermarkets. That has changed recently. I bought my Meyer lemons at the local Sams Club. If that is your only option, wash them extremely well, since it is the skin you will ultimately be using.

The sourness of the lemons mellow over time and they develop a unique and exotic flavor profile of tangy citrus and salty. The peel of  the lemons can be used in marinades for chicken, lamb or fish. Chopped finely, the peel is an interesting addition to grain based salads like quinoa and couscous.  Use it in a gremolata, the classic Italian condiment of garlic, parsley and lemon rind. I use the juice in salad dressings and marinades as well. Feel free to experiment, just remember, a little goes a long way.

Preserved Lemons

from America’s Test Kitchen

Makes One Quart Jar

Ingredients

• 4 Meyer lemons preferably, if not regular lemons will do,  scrubbed and dried well
• 1½ cups juice (8 lemons)
• ½ cup kosher salt
• 1 sterilized quart jar with lid

Directions

1. Cut each lemon lengthwise into quarters, stopping 1-inch from bottom so lemons stay intact at base.
2. Working with 1 lemon at a time, hold lemon over medium bowl and pour 2 tablespoons of salt into cavity of lemon. Gently rub cut surfaces of lemon together, then place in clean 1-quart jar. Repeat with remaining lemons and salt. Add any accumulated salt and juice in bowl to jar.
3. Pour lemon juice into jar and press gently to submerge lemons. At this point I cut a double parchment round the size of the mouth of the jar to keep the lemons submerged. Cover jar tightly with lid and shake. Refrigerate lemons, shaking jar once per day for first 4 days to redistribute salt and juice. Let lemons cure in refrigerator until glossy and softened, 4 to 6 weeks. If you used regular lemons, it may take longer to achieve the desired softness. Preserved lemons can be refrigerated for up to 6 months.
4.  To use, cut off desired amount of preserved lemon. Using knife, remove pulp and white pith from rind. Slice, chop, or mince rind as desired.

 

     

Pack the lemons in a sterilized quart jar. Add any additional seasonings at this time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

       

Over time the juice will take on a cloudy appearance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have a library of hundreds of cookbooks and food magazines from thirty years of cooking, entertaining and catering. Some hold a fonder place in my heart than others. The Silver Palate and Frog Commissary cookbooks are in their second copy after falling apart from years of constant use. Another book that holds a special place for me is Betty Rosbottom’s Cooking School Cookbook. My copy is dog-eared and stained from years of constant use. Her creative recipes were a constant source of inspiration for daily meals, entertaining and in developing my own menus in my fledgling years as a caterer. As someone who doesn’t normally make fancy cakes, I was even inspired to make her chocolate ribbon cake and chocolate apricot pecan torte, both featured on the cover of Bon Appetit. One of the recipes in the Cooking School Cookbook I have been making for years ironically isn’t hers but another cooking teacher, Shirley Rubenstein.  It’s a tangy sweet cranberry chutney that is a part of our Thanksgiving and Christmas table. Chutney, simply put, is a condiment, a mixture of chopped fruit, vinegar, spices and sugar cooked into a chunky spread. This chutney is delicious with turkey dinner and the leftover turkey sandwich your enjoy the next day. It’s also a good accompaniment to soft cheeses and crackers. Perfect as a hostess gift, it will keep for several weeks, refrigerated in an air tight container.

Shirley’s Cranberry Chutney

Ingredients

• 1 c water
• 1 c sugar
• 2 cups fresh cranberries
• 2 T cider vinegar
• 1/2 c golden raisins
• 1/4 c slivered almonds
• 1 T light brown sugar
• 1/4 t ground ginger
• 1/2 t finely chopped garlic

Directions

1.  Combine the water and sugar in a heavy 3 quart saucepan over medium high heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar and then bring to a boil without stirring.
2. Add all the remaining ingredients. Boil very slowly, stirring occasionally, until fairly thick, 5 minutes or longer.
3. Allow the chutney to cool, then cover and refrigerate. Chutney keeps well in the refrigerator, for several weeks.

Makes about 2 cups.