Month: April 2018

April 30, 2018 Whole Roasted Cauliflower

 

Is there any other vegetable as versatile as cauliflower? Puréed as a substitute for mashed potatoes, broken down into fine grains like rice, couscous and polenta, filling in as both pizza crust and tortilla, sometimes I think we forget how good it is without the disguises. I love to toss cauliflower florets with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast them until crispy brown on the outside and tender and creamy to the bite. A tray of roasted cauliflower sometimes doesn’t make it to the dinner table, we finish it off like popcorn. I shouldn’t leave out cauliflower “steaks”, thick slabs roasted in the same fashion as the florets and just as good. But the version that is visually impressive and surprisingly not that hard to do is whole roasted cauliflower. The internet has countless recipes for whole roasted cauliflower, most of the ones I read just baked the cauliflower.  This one, from Israeli celebrity chef Eyal Shani in the latest issue of Milk Street Kitchen uses two techniques, poaching in well salted boiling water and then roasting at a high heat.

Prime season for cauliflower is in the fall and the ones available at farmers markets can be as large as 4-5 pounds. Out of season we depend on the wrapped varieties in our local supermarkets. Look for a cauliflower that weighs about two to two and half pounds.  A larger head will be overcooked on the outside before it is tender on the inside. To begin the two step cooking process, get a large pot of water on to boil and preheat your oven to 475°F with the rack in the middle position.

While you are waiting for things to heat up, carefully trim off the leaves and the hard core near the bottom of the cauliflower. Leave the main stem intact and make sure not to cut through any of the florets. When the water has come to a rolling boil, add a half cup of kosher salt to the water.  Carefully lower the cauliflower into the boiling water and immediately set a timer for five minutes. Since the cauliflower floats to the top, you will need to flip it halfway through the cooking process so it will cook evenly. When the timer goes off, transfer the cauliflower, stem side down to a colander. I found that a large Chinese strainer made this process easy. Allow the cauliflower to drain for at least ten minutes, you want the cauliflower to roast, not steam.

Transfer the cauliflower to a shallow sided baking dish, stem side down of course. Sprinkle with pepper or a pepper seasoning blend and rub with olive oil. Don’t neglect the bottom florets. Place the dish in the oven and bake, rotating the dish several times during the cooking process. This will allow for even browning. Tilting the pan with a potholder, use a small spoon to redistribute any olive oil that accumulates in the pan. The cauliflower is done when it is golden brown on the outside and the center is easily pierced with a skewer. Let cool for five minutes and serve right in the baking dish. Use a knife to cut into wedges. Delicious as is, or serve with your favorite dipping sauce.

Start with a cauliflower that weighs about 2 lbs.
Trim away the leaves and the hard stem.
Blanch cauliflower in a large pot of well salted water. Salting the water ensures the cauliflower is seasoned to the core.
At the halfway point flip the cauliflower to the other side.
Immediately transfer cauliflower to a colander to drain, stem side down.
The finished product.

Whole Roasted Cauliflower

Serves two to four

Ingredients

  • 2-pound cauliflower
  • Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
  • 3-4 T extra virgin olive oil

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 475°F with the rack in the middle position. In a 6 to 8 quart pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil. While you are waiting for the water to boil, trim the green leaves and hard stem from the cauliflower. leaving the core and florets intact. Add a ½ cup of salt to the water and when it comes to a boil carefully lower the cauliflower into the water. Immediately set a timer for five minutes. Flip the cauliflower half way through the cooking process. Remove from heat.
  2.  Transfer the cauliflower to a colander stem side down and drain for at least 10 minutes.
  3. Transfer the cauliflower to a shallow sided baking dish, stem side down.
  4. Drizzle with olive oil and use your hands to rub it in. Season with fresh ground pepper.
  5. Roast in the preheated oven, rotating the baking dish  several times during the cooking process. Spoon oil that accumulates in the pan back over the cauliflower.
  6. Cauliflower is done when golden brown on the outside and a skewer can easily pierce the center, 20-25 minutes.
  7. Let rest for five minutes and serve in the baking dish.

April 19, 2018 Halibut with Avocado, Tomatillo and Fennel Relish

Weekends at our house, fish is always on the menu and most likely it was purchased at Heller’s Seafood in Warrington Pa. Not the closest location to us, but worth the trip because I can always be assured of the quality and freshness of the seafood I purchase. How we cook the fish depends on the weather. In the warmer seasons we often cook whole fish on the grill stuffed with lemon and herbs or a fillet cooked on a fragrant cedar plank.

This time of year with temperatures still in the forties most days, the fish is baked according to Canadian fisheries method. Just measure your fillet, steak or whole fish at the thickest part and follow the rule of 10 minutes per inch or 5 minutes per side per inch. So often the real question is, how am I going to season and accent the flavors of the fish I am cooking.  Meaty swordfish pairs nicely with a rich olive tapenade, sometimes I make my own but occasionally I will just pick up a container at the local supermarket for a quick meal. We top red snapper with a south of the border style Veracruzana sauce, especially good in summer with garden fresh tomatoes.

Recently while searching for a recipe for crispy skinned fish I came across a relish that is an excellent accompaniment to many fish preparations. Avocado, tomatillo and fennel relish originates from a television program on Food Network, “Worst Cooks in America,” not necessarily a place where I would look to find a recipe. Worst Cooks is a program on Food Network that takes contestants, as known as “recruits” with poor cooking skills and puts them through a culinary boot camp to earn cash prizes. This recipe was contributed by chef, restaurateur, cookbook author and Emmy award-winning reality television host, Bobby Flay. Bobby was one of the two mentors for seasons 3 to 5 and this episode is titled straight edge skills. In the clip I saw from the episode Bobby told the recruits he was looking for uniformity and good technique. I didn’t hold out much hope for the recruits I saw, one declared his fear of knives and mistook fennel for an onion and another was cutting the avocado without using the cutting board and only succeeded in cutting himself.

The relish relies on precise knife technique, small dice, fine dice, julienne and a little slicing.With a sharp knife it should go fairly quickly. What I really love about this dish is the contrast in textures and flavor. Tomatillos give a little citrus bite, avocado brings a creamy nuttiness and the fennel is crisp and licoricey sweet. Add pepper to your taste, the original recipe called for a serrano, I opted for a jalapeno, that’s not quite as hot. The original recipe called for red wine vinegar with a touch of honey I substituted grapefruit balsamic from The Tubby Olive.

Halibut with Avocado, Tomatillo and Fennel Relish

Serves two

Ingredients

  • 1 medium fresh tomatillo, husk removed, rinsed well and cut into small dice
  • ½ medium avocado, peeled, pitted and cut into small dice
  • ½ jalapeno, seeded and cut into small dice
  • ¼ small head fennel, cut into julienne
  • ¼ small red onion, thinly sliced against the grain
  • 1 T neutral oil (canola, grape seed)
  • Juice of ½ fresh lime
  • Touch of red wine vinegar and honey or 1 T fruit vinegar
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 T chopped fresh cilantro.
  • Two 6-oz. firm white fish fillets like halibut, grouper or cod

Directions for the relish

  1. Combine the tomatillo, avocado, jalapeno, fennel and onion in a medium bowl.
  2. Drizzle with the oil, lime juice, vinegar and honey. Season with salt and pepper and fold in the cilantro.

Cooking the Fish

  1. Preheat oven to 450°F.
  2. Coat a shallow baking dish with non stick spray. Season the fish fillets with salt.
  3. Measure your fish fillets at the thickest point. Bake the fish for 10 minutes for every inch of thickness.
  4. Serve halibut with the relish and a wedge of lime.

April 6, 2018 Balsamic Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Prosciutto and Pine Nuts

I tried Brussels sprouts for the first time as an adult. It’s not that I disliked them, my mom never served them. In our 1960’s kitchen, most nights canned beans; green, wax, baked and the dreaded lima reigned supreme at the dinner table. That turned out to be a good thing, at least I didn’t have childhood memories of overcooked mushy (and often stinky) sprouts. If you only have memories of bad Brussels sprouts, now is the time to give them a second chance.

Brussels sprouts are members of the same family as cabbage (brassica) and they look like mini heads of cabbage growing on a tall stalk. They are every bit as nutritious as cabbage, low in calories and rich in fiber, vitamin C, vitamin K, beta carotene, folic acid and potassium.

In this one pan recipe sprouts are cooked in two steps. Start with fresh firm sprouts that are 1 to 1 ½ inches in diameter.The smaller the sprout the more tender and sweet it is. If you can find them sold on the stock, usually in the fall, they will be even fresher. Trim the base of the sprout where it was attached to the stalk. Remove any discolored or blemished leaves and cut each head in half through the stem end. Set the sprouts aside.

In a large non stick skillet cook the prosciutto until crisp, remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Chopped bacon or pancetta would work here too. Add all the sprouts, cut side down to the skillet and cook undisturbed until nicely browned. Check the first sprout at about the 2 minute mark to see how they are progressing. I add my sprouts clockwise starting from the top of the pan so I will remember which one to check first. When all the sprouts are browned add a half cup of water to the pan and cover with a lid to simmer until they are tender, easily pierced with the tip of a knife. Transfer sprouts to a plate and keep warm. Add balsamic vinegar to the pan and boil it until reduced and lightly syrupy. Return the sprouts to the pan, tossing them with the balsamic reduction. Add the crisped prosciutto and pine nuts to the pan. If you find pine nuts to be too expensive (they are) substitute chopped walnuts. Top the warm sprouts with some freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

The sprouts are deliciously tender inside and perfectly browned and crusted on the outside. to create a delicious side dish that will be a worthy compliment to any entrée.

Brussels sprouts on the stalk. Stalks can be anywhere from 24-48 inches long.

Brussels Sprouts with Prosciutto and Pine Nuts

Serves 2-3

Ingredients

  • ¼ c finely diced prosciutto
  • 2 T extra virgin olive oil
  • 10-12 oz Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved through the core
  • ¼ c  balsamic vinegar
  • 2 T unsalted butter
  • 3 T toasted pine nuts
  • Kosher salt
  • Parmesan cheese

Directions

  1. In a large non stick skillet set over medium heat, cook the prosciutto in 1 tablespoon of the oil until crisp, 7-8 minutes.
  2. Transfer the prosciutto to a paper towel lined plate, leaving any oil and fat behind.
  3. Add the second tablespoon of oil to the pan and return the heat to medium high. Add the Brussels sprouts cut side down in a single layer. Cook undisturbed for 2-3 minutes until nicely browned.
  4. When the sprouts are browned, add ½ c water to the pan, cover immediately and simmer until the sprouts are tender, they will be easy to pierce with the tip of a knife. If the water evaporates before the sprouts are tender, ¼ cup at a time. Transfer the sprouts to a plate with a slotted spoon.
  5. Add the balsamic vinegar and a few grinds of pepper. Boil the vinegar until it is reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Reduce the heat to low, add the butter and stir until melted.
  6. Return the sprouts to the pan, tossing them in the balsamic reduction. Add the prosciutto and pine nuts and swirl and shake the pan to coat with the sauce.  Top with a grating of fresh Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.