May 8, 2012 Seared Scallops with Spinach

 Scallops were a perennial favorite on my catering menu . Whether served wrapped in smoky bacon and served with a dill horseradish mayonnaise, or as a scallop puff on a crostini accented with dill and lemon, they were quick to disappear from the hors d’oeurve tray.  I learned early in my days as a caterer the importance of having a reputable seafood merchant. I knew of instances where the smaller sweeter (and more expensive) bay scallops were actually punched out of larger sea scallops. Other “scallops” were not scallops at all but were cut out of shark steaks.

 True scallops are sold in two different ways, wet or dry. Dry scallops have not been treated with water or chemicals, which gives them a shorter shelf life. They will range in color from vanilla to almost a peachy color and have a sweet briny aroma.  Wet scallops have been treated with a sodium phosphate solution that helps the scallops retain water for a longer period of time. It also gives them an unnatural uniformly white color.  The phosphate in the solution is an additive that is used in soap products.  So when a wet scallop is cooked it leaches a milky, slightly soapy solution. When you are at the seafood counter it is always best to ask if the scallops are wet or dry, and if they aren’t sure, run, don’t walk away from that store!

In the past ten years the addition of seared scallops became a part of my catering repetoire and is still my favorite way to prepare them now. Wet scallops will not work for this preparation because of the excessive water they exude. Before you cook scallops detach the tough adductor muscle, it peels off very easily.  High heat is the best way to cook scallops and be sure they are as dry as possible.  The outside of the scallop will have a beautiful caramelized crust while the inside is creamy soft, not tough.  I chose to serve it this evening on a bed of our fresh garden spinach.

Garden spinach ready to harvest.

Seared Scallops with Spinach

Serves 2-3

Ingredients

  • 8 to 10 cups well washed spinach
  • 2 small leeks, chopped finely
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 3/4 to 1 lb fresh dry scallops purchased from a reputable seafood dealer
  • Cooking oil that tolerates high temperature cooking-canola, grapeseed etc.
  • 1T butter and 1T olive oil
  • 6-8 cups well washed fresh spinach

Directions

  1. Clean the spinach by filling your sink with cold water. Soak the spinach to remove dirt and sand. The dirt and sand will sink to the bottom and the spinach will float to the top. Remove spinach to a colander while you drain the sink and clean out any dirt.  Repeat the soaking process several times, cut off any large stems and spin in salad spinner to remove excess water. Set aside.
  2. Pat scallops as dry as possible with paper towel or clean dishcloth
  3. Season well with Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper, if you are fussy, then it should be white pepper
  4. Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large non-stick pan that will hold all the scallops comfortably. Sometimes I use a brush to be certain the whole pan is coated. Be sure the pan is hot before adding scallops, a drop of water should bead up on contact.
  5. Add scallops, flat side down and cook undisturbed for several minutes, the length of cooking will depend on the size of the scallop, 2-4 minutes per side is a good guideline. Flip scallops and brown on the other side. they will still be somewhat firm to the touch. Transfer scallops to a platter and keep warm.
  6. Wipe residue out of pan, return to medium high heat. When pan is warm, add butter and oil.
  7. Add chopped leek and garlic to the melted butter and oil. Saute until leek is softened but not browned. Add spinach by the handfuls and saute until the spinach is cooked down.

February 15, 2012 Strange-Flavor Eggplant

A dish that I have to make every year for the Chinese New Year celebration is strange-flavor eggplant. It is Joe’s absolute favorite and I must admit, because it is a dish that benefits from being made several days in advance, I occasionally forget to put it out with all the other side dishes.

Strange flavor eggplant was made famous by the late Chinese scholar, chef and restaurant owner, Barbara Tropp. I have enjoyed reading and cooking many dishes from both her books, The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking and China Moon, named for her Chinese bistro. It is in China Moon, that she shares the recipe for Strange Flavor Eggplant in a chapter entitled, “Nuts, Pickles and Nibbles”.  Ms Tropp says of strange flavor, “a classic name  for a series of Chinese dishes that typically employ a mixture of vinegar, sugar and chili, this is strange as in “wonderful, unique or ineffable”. Fushcia Dunlop in her book “Land of Plenty” describes strange-flavor as one of the 23 flavors of Sichuan. “It is the harmonious mixing of salty, sweet, numbing, hot, sour, fresh-savory and fragrant notes,” she states.

The flavor is not so strange, but quite addictive. The texture is reminiscent of eggplant caviar, it can be eaten as a side vegetable or as a dip, as she suggests with garlic croutons. Hopefully this summer  I will remember to make strange flavor when our garden is producing copious amounts of eggplant.

The cooked eggplants remind me of deflated balloons!

The eggplants were easy to peel, be sure to let them cool first!

Cooking the eggplant with the sauce and aromatics

This year the strange-flavor eggplant made it to the table!

An assortment of beautiful eggplant from a previous season’s garden.

Strange-Flavor Eggplant from the China Moon Cookbook

She says this will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week, but it never lasts that long for us! I usually make a double batch.

Ingredients

  • 1 to 1 1/4 pounds large eggplant (Italian or globe)
  • 2 Tablespoons corn or peanut oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
  • thinly sliced green and white scallion rings for garnish

Aromatics

  • 1 tablespoon finely minced garlic
  • 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger
  • 1/4 cup thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
  • 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon dried red chili flakes

Sauce

  • 3 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 3 tablespoons packed brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon hot water

Preheat the oven to 475F. Position the rack in the center position.

  1. Prick the eggplant well in several places with a fork or the tip of a sharp knife and remove the leaves. Bake on a baking sheet, turning once, until fork-tender, 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the size.
  2. While still warm, remove the stem end and the peel, scraping off and retrieving any pulp. Chop up the pulp and process the pulp and any thick baking juices in a food processor or blender until nearly smooth.
  3. Combine the aromatics in a small dish. Combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl, stir to dissolve the sugar.
  4. Heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 2 tablespoons corn oil, swirl to glaze the pan, reduce heat to medium high. When hot enough to foam a scallion ring, add the aromatics and stir-fry until fragrant, about 15 seconds, adjusting the heat so they sizzle without scorching.  Add the sauce ingredients and stir until simmering. Then add the eggplant, stir well to blend, and heat through.  Remove from heat and adjust seasonings accordingly. Stir in sesame oil.
  5. Allow to cool, stirring occasionally. It will achieve fullest flavor if the eggplant is refrigerated overnight. Serve at room temperature with a sprinkling of scallions.