Category: Salads

I’ve been on a first name basis with kale for quite a few years now. Lacinato, Nero, Tuscan, Dinosaur, and Red Russian, are all varieties we have been growing the last several years. This dark leafy green has been dubbed by nutritionists as a “super food’. Low in calories and high in fiber, it is rich in manganese, and cancer fighting vitamins A, C and K. 

We grow kale in the fall, and as the first frosts come, the leaves become even sweeter.  At first, I used kale as a side dish or in an improvised stew of sausage, clams, and tomatoes. Now that kale has become the vegetable darling “du jour”, the recipe possibilities have become endless. Kale chips are easy to make and more economical than the six dollars for the one ounce package you would pay in the supermarket. All matter of fruit is being combined with kale to make healthy, fiber rich smoothies. I was looking for a healthy side dish and decided to make a kale slaw with ingredients I already had in my refrigerator.

So what makes it a salad or slaw? One definition I read said that slaw originated from the Danish word, “sla”, short for salad.  Probably the most popular explanation originated in the eighteenth century. Our word, coleslaw, is Anglicized from the Dutch, “koolsa”, or cabbage salad. Since cole slaw’s main ingredient is thinly shredded cabbage, I have chosen to bestow the name slaw to this dish. Flatter leaved kale like Lacinato would be easiest for slicing but a curly variety as I used in this recipe works as well. This slaw holds up well for several days, it doesn’t get soggy or wilt, though if you have some left over the next day you might need to drain off a little excess liquid. Beets and carrots happened to be what I had on hand but other vegetables would work as well, turnips, jicama, peppers and shredded cabbage just to name a few.  This is an opportunity to pull out the Kuhn Rikon stainless steel julienne peeler to get the fine shreds of carrot. Pomegranate balsamic brings a rich sweetness that plays nicely off the strong flavor of kale. Honey or maple syrup could substitute for the agave sweetener. Use a flavorful extra virgin olive oil since you will taste it in the final dish.  The slaw would also be good as a topper for fish or chicken tacos.

Sue’s Kale Slaw

Serves four

Ingredients

• 4c thinly sliced raw kale
• 1c thinly julienned raw carrots
• 1c thinly julienned raw beets
• 1/3c roughly chopped pistachios
• 2T pomegranate balsamic vinegar
• 1T pomegranate red wine vinegar
• 1t agave sweetener
• 1t Dijon mustard
• 1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped
• 1/4c extra virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper

Directions

1. Slice out the center rib of the kale leaves and discard. Cut the kale into very thin ribbons to measure out four cups.
2. Very finely julienne the carrot and the beets. Add to the bowl with the kale.
3. Chop pistachios and set aside.
4. Combine the vinegars, agave sweetener, garlic, mustard and olive oil in a small bowl. Whisk gently to combine.
5. Pour vinaigrette over the vegetables, you may not need it all, and toss lightly.  Add pistachios and toss again. Season to taste with kosher salt and pepper.

When food historians and trend watchers look back at the second decade of the twenty-first century, they will no doubt include the kale salad as an emerging food trend. From my vast library of food magazines accumulated over the past twenty (Gourmet) to thirty (Bon Appetit) years I didn’t find a recipe for kale salad until the January 2007 issue of Gourmet. The source was Lupa, the trattoria style restaurant owned by Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich. Inspired by an antipasto, thinly sliced Tuscan or Lacinato kale was combined with ricotta salata and tossed with a simple vinaigrette. In their usual exacting way, Gourmet provided a photo and further description of Lacinato kale in their Kitchen Notebook.  A little more than five years later, Tuscan kale is a green anyone who frequents farmers markets or has a community supported agriculture (CSA) share would be able to identify at first glance. Today, kale is being tossed with all matter of fruits, cheeses and grains to make a hearty, healthful salad.

Now, in their September restaurant issue, Bon Appetit has anointed the kale salad from Battersby, a trendy Brooklyn restaurant with the title of “dish of the year”. Dish of the year? Well for me it was salad of the weekend because almost all of the ingredients to make the dish were growing in the garden with the exception of cucumbers. Strips of crispy kale adorn a salad of baby greens, pea shoots, thinly sliced cucumbers, root vegetables and more kale. A dressing of lime juice, brown sugar, Thai chili and fish sauce gives the salad a southeast Asian flair. Brushing rather than tossing the leaves with oil, keeps the chips from being too greasy. My kale strips took less time than the original recipe, they were sufficiently crispy in twenty minutes, most likely due to using the convection setting on the oven. The greens of choice that came from our garden for this salad included young kale leaves, baby arugula and mache (hello eighties) and pea shoots. Our fall crop of root vegetables provided us with the beautiful colors of watermelon, black and Easter egg radishes, Chiogga and Golden beets, baby carrots and snow white Hakurei turnips. The herbs I used were Italian flat-leaved parsley, cilantro, cinnamon basil and the first of the new crop of chervil. I added thinly sliced cucumbers, although peppers would have worked as well. In the off-season, I prefer Kirby or pickling cucumbers, I find they have more flavor than other varieties. We enjoyed the salad and I would definitely make it again. The simplicity of the original kale salad from Lupa is deserving of a try as well.  What I am really looking forward to is what happens to kale after the first frost. It becomes amazingly sweet. Then it will be time to cook with kale in traditional heartier dishes like stews and soups.

Crispy Kale Salad with Lime Dressing

from Bon Appetit September 2012

Ingredients

• 1 1/2T light brown or palm sugar, packed
• 1/4c fresh lime juice
• 3T fish sauce ( I am partial to Three Crabs brand)
• 1t minced garlic
• 1/2 red Thai chili, seeded and thinly sliced
• 24 small Tuscan kale leaves (5″ long) or 5″ pieces torn from larger leaves
• 1T vegetable oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 3c loosely packed mixed tender herbs, I used Italian flat leaved parsley, cilantro, cinnamon basil and chervil
• 3c mixed shaved root vegetables, I used radishes, beets, carrots and turnips
• 2c of a combination of baby arugula, pea tendrils and mache (watercress is another option here)
• 2c thinly sliced stemmed Tuscan kale leaves
• 1c thinly sliced cucumber

Directions

1. Dissolve sugar and 2 tablespoons warm water in a microwave oven for about 30 seconds. Whisk in the next four ingredients for dressing. Set aside.
2. Arrange racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 250F. Brush tops of kale leaves with oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange leaves in a single layer on 2 large baking sheets. Bake, rotating sheets top to bottom and back to front halfway through until kale is crisp, anywhere from 20 to 30. Know your oven!! Transfer the leaves from the baking sheet to a cooling rack.
3. In a large bowl mix herbs and the next four ingredients with enough dressing to coat lightly. Divide salad among plates; top with crispy kale leaves and additional dressing if desired.

   

Cucumbers picked right off the vine are a refreshing summertime treat. While the vines are producing more cucumbers than I can handle, I will be making many variations of cucumber salad. The variety that we grew this year was Burpee’s Burpless Sweet.  According to Burpee, burpless cucumbers are bred to contain low or no cucurbitacin,a natural organic compound that causes both bitterness and gives some the susceptibility to “burp” after consuming the fruits. Although cucurbitacin is found mostly in the leaves, stems and roots of the plant, it can also be found in the skin and the light green area beneath the skin. Stressed plants, those that do not receive the proper amount of water, are subject to high temperatures and wide temperature swings, seem to contain more cucurbitacin. So it seems to me that cucumbers would be best grown in a controlled enviroment like a greenhouse. In seasons where I am not growing them I prefer a Kirby-style cucumber that are greenhouse grown. On a positive note, researchers are looking into the anti-cancer properties of cucurbitacin that may inhibit cell development.

 Back to the salad now, I like to leave a small strip of skin for color contrast. Garden or farmer’s market cucumbers are your best choice. Avoid waxed supermarket cucumbers at all costs. Taste your red onion before adding it to the salad. If it is “hot”, a 15 minute ice water soak should take care of that. Cucumbers and dill are a classic combination but you could also use Greek oregano, coriander or even lemon basil. There are several choices for Feta, the classic Greek, but Bulgaria, Israel, France and the United States all make their own Feta cheese. I prefer the French variety which is made from the milk left over in the production of Roquefort cheese. It has a creamier texture and is mild in flavor. Halved cherry tomatoes would be a nice addition to the salad as well.

Cucumber, Red Onion and Feta Salad

Serves 8

• 3 medium to large cucumbers
• 1/3 c thinly sliced red onion
• 1/4c champagne or white wine vinegar
• 1t sugar
• 1/4t salt
• 1/3c thinly sliced red onion
• 1T or more chopped fresh dill
• 1/2c crumbled feta cheese or to taste

Directions

1. Trim ends of cucumbers and peel leaving only thin strips of skin. Cut in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds if necessary, then cut in quarters again lengthwise. Cut the quartered cucumbers into 1/2 inch chunks.
2. In a large bowl combine cucumber chunks with thinly sliced onion. In a small bowl combine vinegar, sugar, salt, and dill. Pour dressing over cucumbers and onion and toss lightly.
3. Sprinkle feta over the salad. Season to taste with fresh ground pepper.

A happy “unstressed” plant!

A salad with tomatoes, beets and carrots? Not your typical summer salad definitely. When sweet crunchy carrots and beets and the first of the season Fourth of July and Sungold tomatoes are ready to harvest at the same time, they meet up in our summer salads. Summer is not the best season to grow lettuce.  Lettuce prefers to grow in the cooler temperatures of spring but there are some varieties that are more heat tolerant.  We plant lettuce every other week or so and harvest greens while they are young before the heat causes them to bolt.  A combination of arugula, oak leaf lettuce, lolla rosa and mustard greens are some of the greens we are harvesting now. The beets and carrots, both raw are very finely julienned and add both color and crunch. I like to make a vinaigrette with a touch of sweetness to counterbalance the slight bitterness of the greens.  Some crumbled goat cheese and Brazil nuts give this salad additional flavor and texture.

Summer Salad for two

Ingredients

• 1/4 c white wine or champagne vinegar
• 1T white balsamic vinegar
• 1t Dijon mustard
• 1t or so of honey or agave sweetener (depends on how bitter your greens are)
• 3/4 c extra virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• Mixed salad greens-about 4-5 cups
• 1 small beet, peeled and finely julienned
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and finely julienned
• 1 cup or more of Sungold and Fourth of July tomatoes, halved
• 1/3c crumbled goat cheese
• 1/4c coarsely chopped Brazil nuts

1. Combine the first five ingredients in a small bowl, whisk to combine, add salt and pepper to taste
2. Separate lettuce into leaves, wash and spin in salad spinner
3. Place lettuce on serving platter, top with beets, carrots, tomatoes, goat cheese and Brazil nuts
4. Toss with enough dressing to lightly coat, there will be some left. Top with fresh ground pepper to taste

Broccoli is a much maligned vegetable. Former president George H.W. Bush is quoted as saying,”I do not like broccoli. And I haven’t liked it since I was a little kid and my mother made me eat it. And I’m President of the United States and I’m not going to eat any more broccoli.” Well Mr President. my theory is most people don’t really hate the vegetables they think they do, they just haven’t had them fresh or prepared properly, well except for lima beans. Rich in fiber, broccoli nutrients include calcium and vitamins C, K and A. Botanically it belongs to the cruciferous family which includes cabbage, kohlrabi and turnips. I love broccoli, especially when it is picked fresh from the garden and cooked within hours. After the main head is picked, side florets will continue to produce for weeks to come. It has a definite sweetness, that no supermarket fresh or frozen variety can compare to. In the off season I like to separate it into florets, toss with olive oil, kosher salt, Aleppo pepper and pinch of sugar and roast it at 450 until brown and crispy in spots. We are lucky if the roasted broccoli makes it to the table. The garden’s first broccoli heads are ready for harvest and I turned to Fine Cooking for a broccoli salad recipe. Lightly cooked broccoli is combined with sweet currants, salty feta and almonds dressed with a slightly spicy vinaigrette.. The verdict? Two of us consumed the salad that feeds four to six in one day and I made it again the next evening. A definite winner.

Broccoli Salad with Feta, Olive-Oil-Fried Almonds and Currants

from Fine Cooking Magazine #76

Serves four to six

Ingredients

• 1 lb broccoli
• 1-1/2 tablespoons dried currants
• 1 medium clove garlic
• Kosher salt
• 2 Tbs red wine vinegar
• Pinch cayenne pepper
• 5 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup blanched, slivered almonds
• 3 oz feta (preferably French), crumbled (about 3/4 cup)
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

Directions

1. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat.
2. Meanwhile, tear off any broccoli leaves and trim the bottoms of the stems. Cut the florets just above where they join the large stem, and then cut each floret lengthwise in half or in quarters through its stem (but not the buds). The top of each floret should be about the size of a quarter. Using a vegetable peeler or paring knife, peel the tough outer skin from the large stem, removing as little flesh as possible. Cut the stem into baton-shaped pieces about 1/4 inch wide and 2 inches long.
3. Boil the florets and stem pieces until they’re tender (pierce with a paring knife or taste a piece) but still offer a bit of resistance, about 3 minutes. Drain the broccoli, spread it on a baking sheet in an even layer, and set aside to cool, it will continue to cook as it cools.
4. Put the currants in a small bowl, add enough hot water to cover, and let sit until softened, about 10 min. Meanwhile, using a mortar and pestle or the flat side of a chef’s knife, mash the garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt. Transfer the garlic to a small bowl and add the vinegar and cayenne. Let sit for about 10 minutes.
5. Warm 1 Tbs. of the oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the slivered almonds and fry, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 2 to 3 min. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels and season with salt.
6. Drain the currants. Whisk the remaining 4 Tbs oil into the vinegar mixture. Just before serving combine the broccoli, currants, feta, and half of the almonds in a large bowl. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and toss gently to combine. Taste and season with a pinch more salt if necessary. Transfer to a serving platter and sprinkle with the remaining almonds and the cilantro, if using.

The changes I made to the recipe:

I didn’t need to peel the stem of my just-picked broccoli, it was tender enough. Also my broccoli was sufficiently cooked in two minutes. I did fry the almonds but I don’t see why they couldn’t be toasted if you wanted to avoid the extra oil. Marcona almonds would be a great substitute. I love French feta but didn’t have any on hand so I used a supermarket brand. I didn’t have cilantro so I substituted parsley. Basil might be nice as well.

Unique ingredients intrigue me. Give me a vegetable or grain I haven’t seen before and it’s bound to show up in my shopping basket. This was the case a few weeks ago at the Pennsylvania Dutch Farmers Market. Bags of grains lined the wall of one stand and a bag of farro caught my eye. All I knew at that point was that the name might be Italian, and sounded a lot more appealing than kamut or spelt. My research revealed that farro (pronounced FARH-oh) was a staple of ancient Egypt, a type of wheat brought to Europe by Julius Caesar. It was said to have fed the Roman Legion but soon fell out of favor because it is a low yielding crop. In recent years farro has experienced a resurgence.Grown mostly in Tuscany and Umbria, the small plump grains have a nutty flavor that is perfect in soups, stews and salads. Farro comes either whole grain, pearled or semi-pearled. Pearled means that the hull is removed from the grain and results in a shorter cooking time. The Aleppo pepper in the recipe is a new favorite ingredient of mine and definitely worth trying. Aleppo pepper is  from northern Syria and it is a crushed, slightly oily dried pepper. It has a complex flavor that doesn’t overpower  with a moderate heat level, some fruitiness and cumin undertones. I used a French feta cheese in this recipe. It is a sheep’s milk cheese and is much creamier and milder than the supermarket garden-variety. I have found it both at Wegmans and at the Middle Eastern stand at the local Pennsylvania Dutch farmer’s market.

We have a bumper crop of broccoli this year, the plants look great and they are yielding beautiful heads and after they are picked, a good amount of side growth. . In this recipe the broccoli is roasted, and combined with farro, feta cheese and a simple vinaigrette. I added some chopped tamari almonds for some crunch. The contrasts of creamy, chewy and the caramelized broccoli made for a delicious salad.

Roasted Broccoli and Farro Salad

adapted slightly from Fine Cooking Magazine #107

Ingredients

• 3/4 c farro (either pearled or whole grain)
• 1 lb broccoli, cut into bite-sized pieces including the stems
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1T Aleppo pepper
• 3T extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 crumbled feta
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced, white and light green part only
• 2T coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaved parsley
• 1-2T red wine vinegar
• 1/3 c coarsely chopped tamari almonds

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 425F.
2. In a 4-quart saucepan, bring 2 quarts of  well salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the farro and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes for pearled and 45 to 60 minutes for whole grain. Drain well and transfer to a large bowl.
3. Toss the broccoli in a large bowl with 2T olive oil, kosher salt,  a grind of pepper and the Aleppo pepper. Transfer to a baking sheet and roast under tender, checking pan several times to ensure even browning. I use a spatula to toss things around to be certain all sides are getting brown.
4. Add the broccoli, feta, scallions, parsley to the farro, Sprinkle with a tablespoon or so of red wine vinegar and toss. Drizzle with remaining olive oil, sprinkle almonds on top and toss. Season to taste, adjusting seasonings as needed. Serve warm or at room temperature.